jono: September 2006

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

I was surfing again today, so many strange things happen all the time I can't even begin to explain. We had tickets to the wrong town on the wrong train and ended up exactly where we wanted to be. I've been having a terrible sensation since I left the beach of being a little too far ahead of a wave and toppling end over end in it as it crashes. It happened to me a few times today and it's one of the scariest things, you don't know where your board is, you don't know which way is up you don't know how long you've been under or will be under, you're terrified that your board will smack you in the head and knock you out and you'll drown. Anyway, also today (and equally shitty...) a stray dog peed on my backpack, and then other ones were walking up to it about to pee on it and i had to chase them away. I took a ton of pictures and will be getting them developed this week and they'll be up here soon.