I had a good day surfing today. I've gotten a much better feel for my board, I think. I can see when I've got my weight too far forward and too far behind now. I can anticipate the pain of being too far forward and flipping end over end and the boredom of swimming too slow and missing a wave altogether and the elation of catching a wave perfectly. You see a wave coming and it's such a thin line between them, the excitement and fear all at once is amazing.